It didn't take all the swing out but almost. Then he filled the bucket with water and let the plumb bob drop down inside the bucket of water. Then he made a center dot inside the bucket. What you got.? He got a 3 gallon bucket and used a sharpie to make cross hairs on the bottom of the bucket then up the side of the bucket about an inch. He came up to me and said do you want to know a little trick to get that plumb bob to quit swinging.? Sure. An 80yr old retired engineer was visiting the job sight. There was a good wind blowing through the building and I was having heck getting that plumb bob still enough to get a mark. I think they are a must too.!! I had to get a mark down from a roof to the floor one time and it was almost 40ft high. Tommy I have three plumb bobs in my truck at all times too. I do not like the self leveling ones.!! I have seen them screw up too many times.!! I like to manually set mine.!! RC You can calibrate most of them yourself without too much problem. It also lets me hold my tape still in high winds which can be tough to do.!! In my opinion they are a must.!! Google Transit level and you will see a ton of them ranging from $80 to $900. This lets me go back to my level, read the measurements I need then move to the next one. I will hook my tape to one end then hook the bottom of my tape to another. I carry two strong strong magnets with me.
Anyway they are well worth the money.!! When you start using them you will start figuring out new ways to use them and they become your right hand. They have some that will shoot within 1/32 every 100 feet up to 400ft I believe. Mine is not very high end but it will shoot within +/- 1/8 at 100ft. A builders level is a must for building anything perfectly level over any distance.
#Plumb bob tricks how to#
You can square things up with them shoot a grade% with them and allot of other cool things that I don't know how to do. A transit is awesome for shooting grades up hill or down hill. I was raised calling them a transit but yes it is very different to a transit. To calculate how much you will have to jack the tree to reach the apex where it can begin to fall in the direction you want it to, see the Autumn 2005 Tricks of the Trade column.I have a builders level. If the plumb bob is on the back side of the tree, then you have back lean, and you’ll need to use your wedges and maybe shims to jack the tree over.
If the plumb bob hangs on the side you want the tree to be felled, you’ve got front lean, making your job a bit easier. When you get far enough away to see the crown of the tree, use the plumb bob again in the same way. Go back to the tree and then walk away from it at a 90-degree angle from the direction of your stake.
The final step is to plumb your front/back lean. This will change the location of your notch and compensate for the side lean. For example, if you have two feet of lean to the left, move your stake two feet in the opposite direction of the lean. You can compensate for this lean in your cutting plan by changing your aim. So, for example, if your plumb bob hits a spot two feet to the left of the tree’s base, you’ve got two feet of side lean. Use your open eye to follow down the plumb bob and looking past it toward the tree, note how far from the center of the base of the tree your plumb bob reaches the ground. Then, standing at the stake, and using some sort of plumb bob (it’s easy to improvise one with a piece of string and a weight tied to its end), close one eye and line up your fingers at the top of the plumb bob with the center of the crown’s mass, a point that is equidistant from the Estimate where the very top of the tree will land on the ground and plant a stake there. Step one is to walk out to where you would like your tree to fall. The following steps will help you determine how much lean the tree presents. As always, if you feel you don’t have the skill and experience, don’t cut the tree. Lean in any direction of more than five feet is considered severe and can adversely affect the integrity of the hinge. Severe lean, or even moderate lean in a tree whose trunk has weakening defects can be cause for concern. It is usually not difficult to compensate for a little bit of lean, by using either wedges or a change in aim. Lots of times, you’ll want to fell a tree in a different direction than its lean. For the sake of discussion, we’ll consider the word “lean” to mean that the center of a tree’s mass is not plumb above the center of the stump. Since only a very few trees grow absolutely vertically, determining and adjusting for the lean of a tree is an important skill for any sawyer preparing to fell a tree.
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